Dream of Steam in the Stream

New Zealand is a geothermal wonderland tucked away deep in the Southern Hemisphere. Driving through this stunning beacon of natural beauty there is almost always a glimpse of geothermal power escaping from the deepest depths of our complex planet. Streams of steam billow from the earth making money for the nation not just through the creation of power but through tourist attractions as well.


Natural hot springs, geothermal spas, thermal hot pools, whatever you call them, these all-natural hot bodies of water are never all that far away.  A popular tourist destination, you can rest assured that if this is on your New Zealand to do list, there is somewhere you can go and pay approximately $30 a person plus $5 a towel & $8 a robe to visit. However, don't be fooled by the mirage of elaborate marketing. Paying to visit one of these steaming hot pools is not a necessity as there are much more intimate locations you can frequent free of charge.

Hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous mountain that played Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) in the Lord of the Rings trilogy, we decided to drive to Wellington via Lake Taupo. Having arrived at Taupo peering through rushing windshield wipers flinging large droplets of rain off into the darkness of the night, we hoped that the night would deal with the storm and lead us into a beautiful morning so we could have a view of the real life fictional mountain.

No such luck. We woke to the sound of rain on our windows and all of our plans to visit the mountain were washed away. Though we were doomed to not visit the mountain we were determined not to let the day be a total wash. A friend (who lives in Auckland) had suggested a natural hot spring in Taupo that is a favorite spot for the locals and better yet, free of charge!

Spa Thermal Park, is a public park with expansive fields, a fabulous playground, and trails that take you down & around the Otumuheke thermal stream. The steamy stream flows into the frigid Waikato river creating a lovely swirl of hot and cold water mixing together enabling you to find the perfect place to relax.

It was an incredibly cold day and with the rain dribbling slowly down from the never ending grey clouds we made sure to wrap up warm and bring towels with us so we could dry off the moment we abandoned the comfort of the warm water. A cold wet day creates the perfect occasion to visit this hidden gem. Not only is the horde of usual rowdy visitors who often plague the river in the hot summer months deep in hibernation, but the wet winter conditions intermingle idyllically with the piping hot stream.

Not wanting any of the chilly Waikato to even have the chance to lick my back we continued over the bridge and up the stream to one of the many "private" entrances along the path. A beautiful little waterfall stood cascading into a shallow pool the size of a hot tub and the fog of mist & steam rising above it willed us to skimp out of our cozy winter warmers and slip gingerly into the inviting water. The pool was so hot that the minute my toes were dipped in I had no qualms sitting on the cold rocks to work my way in to the water slowly.

The rain dancing with the cold air as it sprinkled down on us was fabulously refreshing and helped us not over heat in the water. We spent ages in the water, getting in and out to regulate our temperature, just relaxing and enjoying the magic of the hidden treasure. When the time came to leave, it was a welcome escape from the heat to climb completely out into the cold air and dry off. (In fact, once we were completely dry and had bundled back up we found ourselves overheating as we were walking back to the car because we were still so warm from the water!)

Absolutely no doubt, hands down this was the best free stop on our entire trip, and in my top 5 favorite experiences in all of New Zealand. Whenever you next find yourself in New Zealand, especially in the winter, you simply must stop at one of the many thermal wonders and go for a dip. (Visit NZHotPools.co.nz for a full list of sites!)

Blue Skies appearing over Lake Taupo as we are leaving.

Swept Away in the Shire

I am incredibly proud to admit that I am a total Tolkien dweeb. I have had many Lord of the Rings trilogy marathon days and intend to continue on this tradition once the third and final Hobbit movie comes out. As a child one of my absolute favorite books of all time was the Hobbit. I had it on cassette, had two copies of the book in English and one copy in Spanish. In fact, the Hobbit (embarrassingly enough) was the first book I ever read in Spanish. Now then, with all of this now blatantly out in the open, I have to admit that Hobbiton was on the top of my list when it was decided we would be making our way to New Zealand for a road trip. 

New Zealand is a breathtaking place with an astonishing amount of things to do (especially for such a little island). Hence, we had carefully planned our trip to ensure it would be possible to see as much of the North and South islands as possible. Therefore, when there happened to be a cyclone blowing through the North Island, surrounded by torrential rain on the day of our Hobbiton tour there was absolutely no chance that we were going to miss it.

Hobbiton is by no means inexpensive. Probably one of the most expensive stops on our trip it cost us $75 (NZD) each to enter. Having arrived, we parked our car in a large parking lot, smack-dab in the middle of nowhere with not a single hobbit hole in sight, and bought our tickets from the visitor's center. With rain swirling around us and pockets turned out to pay for the tour we quickly began to wonder if our long awaited adventure was worth the wait. The large coach bus drove us through farmlands as the rain created its own unique rhythm to entertain along with the tour guide. 

We arrived on location, where we were happy to find a building stuffed to the gills with massive umbrellas for visitor use and otherwise naught but hills of grass. Following our tour guide precariously along a dirt path through an opening in the hill we were astonished by what lay on the other side. We had just walked through the passage where Frodo surprises Gandalf in the first film and emerged to find ourselves in the entrance to the Shire, gawking up at the stunning town of Hobbiton. Even through a veil of rain the mythical town is shrouded in an air of magic inspiring even the not so enthusiastic visitors to smile. 

Umbrellas in hand (more to carry us away then protect us from the rain) we made our way past 44 hobbit holes, the massive field where Bilbo celebrates his eleventy-first birthday, and all the way to the Green Dragon for some warm food and a pint of the Shire's finest. However, despite the gravity defying rain and spine chilling temperatures willing you to the Green Dragon at the end of the tour, the tour offered more than a warm hearth awaiting you with a cold pint. Our guide "Phoebe" was fabulous fun, providing an incredibly entertaining tour despite the gloomy day, educating us on loads of facts about the filming and the set. In addition to her wealth of knowledge and fun personality, she seemed to have this magical ability to make the rain subside at the best photo ops giving us a brief moment to snap umbrella free pictures and making her the wizard on set. The highlight for me was two hobbit holes in particular, Bag End (home of Frodo & Bilbo) & Sam's home (which you see at the end of the third Lord of the Rings film), both of which brought vivid images from the films to mind making it easy to imagine you were really in Middle Earth and Frodo himself could step out of the door at any moment. Sitting in the Green Dragon at the end of our tour, enjoying a tasty pint and some scrumptious pumpkin soup I could not help but feel I was lost in a dream. There I was, sitting in the shire, glancing out on Middle Earth through a window and above all the clouds that were trying to rain on my parade. Sun, snow, rain or cyclone. Tolkien fan or Tolkien stranger. Hobbiton is a must see location while travelling through New Zealand's North Island.

Maungakiekie - One Tree Hill

Twenty thousand years ago a wild untamed volcano lost its temper spewing molten lava all over the little island it called home. Its tantrum was so outrageous that it built a whole new terraced landscape. Today the landscape of this once ferocious volcano is a peaceful haven. Maungakiekie, as the Maori call it, was one of the most important fortified villages of the Maori who inhabited the hill around the 16-1700's. Often referred to today as One Tree Hill, Maungakiekie is now a simple park adjoined with Cornwall Park for the locals to enjoy.

We arrived early in the morning and drove slowly into Cornwall Park hunting for a parking spot amongst the cars of the avid joggers who were out getting an early start. Parking the car a short way up the hill we grabbed our gear and continued on foot. Sheep decorate the landscape making the stunning scenery all the more interesting and we kept stopping despite the looming clouds to set up the tripod and capture some images.

Half way up the hill we found the visitor's center where we were greeted by two lovely ladies. They weren't just friendly faces but an endless fountain of information about Cornwall Park, One Tree Hill & the Maori. They showed us to the on site cinema where we watched a film to gain a visualization of the old Maori town and learn about Sir John Logan Campbell, a great leader who loved the Maori and is considered by many to be the "father of New Zealand." Campbell set aside money for an obelisk to be built in honor of the Maori and this obelisk stands proudly at the top of the hill, a shining beacon for all to see in honor of the Maori.

One Tree Hill is named after a lone tree that used to reside at the top of the hill before the construction of the Obelisk. Unfortunately the tree was cut down and when the government tried to replace it with a grove of trees only one survived. This one tree lived next to the Obelisk for quite some time. However, unfortunately the tree had to be removed due to its deteriorating health meaning there is no longer a lone tree at the top of the hill. Despite the missing tree, the hill is covered by trees of a variety of species and one tree in particular stands very alone in a field just below the summit disguising itself as the ancient "One Tree" of lore.

The further up the hill you go the more vast and beautiful the view becomes. The city of Auckland grows around you with every step and once at the top you can see all edges of this instrumental Kiwi metropolis. Standing at the top of this cold volcano taking in the beautiful views and the fascinating Obelisk was a brilliant start to my New Zealand adventure. With storm clouds quickly moving in we made our way quickly down the side of the terraced volcano. Unfortunately for me, as the rain began to pour the mud began to thicken. Arriving at an incredibly steep slope I started to make my way down carefully, moving my camera bag in front of me I squelched my first foot into the mud that was rushing down the hill. Foot nicely sunk in I took my second step and then my third and with my confidence building as to my incredible mud navigation skills I took the fourth step and WOOSH I was gone. One arm wrapped quickly around my camera bag as the other went back to break my fall and I slid like a little girl sledding on a rubbish bin lid down the side of the hill all the way down to the bottom. Bum caked in mud, I stood up to find myself otherwise relatively clean and unharmed, so I brushed myself off and we bustled back towards the car.

Despite the ominous clouds followed by the rain and the mud slide it had been a fabulous outing! One Tree Hill was definitely in my top 5 sites we visited while in New Zealand. Not only was it free but it was interesting, full of culture, and complete with fabulous views. Definitely somewhere I would like to visit again one day (though maybe not in the rain!)

Aroha Aotearoa

For me there is little better than an open road compelling me towards my next adventure. A world of endless possibilities lies before you but as time is not infinite you have to constantly make choices at every possible detour either to diverge from your set course to explore or continue towards your final destination. With that finite time forever in your mind only a certain number of detours are truly possible so you constantly have that niggling feeling in the back of your mind that you might have just missed something amazing as you pass on an option to turn but you are too excited about your destination to make too many detours. This feeling, this sense of adventure and exploration tantalizingly mixed with the need to make quick decisions on the go makes embracing the open road all the more exhilarating.

I can barely begin to describe the beauty of New Zealand. It is as if mother nature herself created it as her own personal playground perfecting every inch of ground from the deepest gullies to the highest peaks. The small country is a "kaleidoscape" of exotic natural worlds which converge into an ethereal land shrouded in mystery and wonder. Hugging the open road in our little 4X4 every turn brought a vision of beauty. Rain, clouds, sunshine, or the deepest darkest night it did not matter beauty danced around you.

Driving through New Zealand, exploring both the North & South islands was an adventure unlike any other. We landed in Auckland and drove down through the North Island to Wellington where we caught a ferry to the South Island before making our way down the West Coast and crossing back up towards Christchurch. It was an absolute whirlwind and the only thing we couldn't get enough of was time.

This road trip in New Zealand proved to me that that my biggest fear in life is time. Yes, time, not heights or spiders, death or snakes, simply time. We have a finite amount of time living and breathing in this universe and it is constantly running away from us. I am not scared of dying but of not living, of wasting the precious time I have. I have three great loves in my life: my family, my friends, and my world and travelling is a great way for me to stay in touch with all of them while doing something I love.

We live in a beautiful world and New Zealand is a sparkling example of its beauty. Here are some of my favorite photos taken from the road while on the most fantastic road trip I have taken thus far. Enjoy!

In the Clouds Above Tokyo

Crowned with a halo of clouds the Tokyo Skytree towers above all others as it reaches towards the heavens. Pearls of rain rolling down it, the structure shines enticing you towards it and begging you to enter. A quick elevator ride, which makes your ears pop twice, takes you 350m up to the first observation deck. Here you can enjoy panoramic views of the gigantic city, and on a clear day even see Mt. Fuji.

Standing at the bottom of the tower looking up, the building looks pretty tall but not unusually high. However, once up on the observation deck it is shocking to look down and realize just how high up you really are. Looking down on the rest of Tokyo without another building coming even remotely close it feels as though you are floating above the world. 

Through the patches in the quickly moving clouds, we were treated to fabulous views of the city, spanning as far as the eye can see. Every which way you look something catches your eye and fortunately there are interactive maps scattered around the floor enabling you not only to discover what you are looking at through the windows, but to learn a few small details about them as well.

View from the Skytree

There are three levels of the observation deck, each of which have something different to offer. On a crystal clear day we may have paid the extra to go up to the observation gallery which is the uppermost level, however as visibility was limited by the inclement weather, we enjoyed the three decks available to us and spent a good hour and a half soaking up the views.

The Tokyo Skytree is not the only tall tower of mention in Tokyo. So after we had come back down to the ground and explored the shops in the mall (which is basically attached to the skytree) we made our way to the second best view point in Tokyo, the Tokyo Tower. Having enjoyed the skytree in the daylight it was nice to experience the Tokyo Tower at night as it provided such a different experience.

Tokyo Tower @ night

The Tokyo tower, bearing an uncanny resemblance to Paris' Eiffel Tower is a beautiful structure located close to the Zojoji temple. (Click here to learn about the Tokyo Tower & the Zojoji temple) We enjoyed the stunning views and walking around the bottom of the Tokyo Tower before heading out for some dinner near by. (Click here to read about the food in Tokyo).

Given the amount of rain pouring down on us, it was nice to spend the day in the clouds, soaking up what views we could of Tokyo both day and night!

Early in the morning, the queues were non-existent!

Inside watching the rain roll down...

As the Rain Pours on Tokyo...

Even as a Brit I am amazed by how long it can rain in Tokyo. Since our flight touched down the clouds have not stopped crying, leaving the city and its people heavily saturated. However, even under a veil of water Tokyo is beautiful. The city, which boasts the largest metropolitan population in the world, has buildings so tightly packed together that even a squirrel would have a tough time trying to walk in between them. Yet, despite the incredibly dense population you would never know it was so heavily inhabited, Tokyo is remarkably quiet and clean. Walking along the streets, not one horn honks or one piece of rubbish blows past me. The traffic moves and the people respect each others space, you don't have to fight your way through a crowd but move effortlessly along with it, making for an incredibly pleasant (yet surreal) urban experience.

Tokyo has so much to offer but in a city with so much rain and such amazing food, we are constantly stopping in random eateries to sample the delectable cuisine. From a simple hole in the wall with a vending machine-esque ordering system to a cafe specializing in chocolate from around the world we are drawn in, like bears to honey and order more than we could ever eat. Although it is safe to say that at least half the time we have no clue what we are ordering, we know what we want to avoid and therefore always manage to discover something scrumptious.

Kantarou Restaurant in Toyocho

Having eaten in a countless number of restaurants, hands down, no contest, without a doubt THE best place we stopped to eat was an inconspicuous little restaurant near Toyocho station (exit 4 turn left) named Kantarou. Sliding the door open and stepping inside, we were slightly confused by the strange decor adorning every table but quickly bustled in and sat down. We were the only customers in the restaurant, save one quiet group in the corner whose food had yet to arrive, so the strange fans posing as lanterns over each table appeared as a puzzling form of air conditioning. Picking up our menus we stared at the pictures surrounded by hieroglyphs on the menu trying to determine what to choose.  Luckily for us the other table received their food just after our beverages arrived and suddenly the decor made sense, the fans weren't air conditioning after all. In fact they were chimneys, because the specialty here was yakiniku (BBQ.) Not only was it fun to prepare our own food but the quality of the meat and the flavor was absolutely exquisite. We had little clue what some of the meat was that was brought to us, as nobody in the restaurant spoke any English, but our waiter was a real star and even took the time to show us what we were unsure about on his iPhone (turned out it was Stingray! Surprisingly delicious!). By the time we were finishing our meal, every table in the place was packed and it was clear that this was a local favorite! Thanks to the fabulous service and quality of not just the food but the experience, Kantarou is definitely somewhere I will be returning to on my next trip to Tokyo.

No matter where you stop to eat in Tokyo you will be hard pressed to find somewhere that isn't preparing something delectable. The sushi & sashimi needless to say is to die for, the noodle bowls are deceptively large & slurpishly good, and the edamame melts in your mouth with the perfect level of saltiness to tantalize the tongue.

Kantarou Restaurant

Yakiniku in Kantarou

In Tsukiji

Breakfast in Tsukiji

Sushi @ Shimizu Restaurant

100% Chocolate Cafe

100% Chocolate Cafe