Day 3:
Having arrived at Claggan Farm B&B late the night before, we weren't actually back up and out on the trail until 10am. It was yet again a crystal clear day and stepping out of the farmhouse we packed our jackets into our bags and put our sunglasses on to face the sun. The owners of Claggan Farm were incredibly friendly & helpful, going out of their way to direct us to the Macallan Distillery via a field of happy cows. Sticking to the fence line we did our best to avoid the various obstacles scattered along the way. From bogs to cow dung, ravines to trees, we were busily navigating the fields that would deliver us to the distillery in record time. Hiking up the hill following a tractor path into the back side of the Macallan Distillery and past all the warehouses, that ever so familiar smell of "the angel's share" began to waft past our noses and our excitement began to build.
Our tour of the Macallan distillery was simply put, superb, and we left feeling like proud whisky-know-it-alls. Extremely satisfied with our experience at Macallan we decided to dedicate the rest of our day to the trail and hiked back along the River Spey in towards Aberlour before heading back up into Craigellachie. The tall grass still speckled with morning dew soaked our boots and kept us moving. The river is such a brilliant blue and the bank is covered in such rich greenery you expect to see the Scottish whisky angels dancing around on the other side of the Spey to the rhythm of the water rushing over the stones.Only leaving the trail to stop in the Speyside Way visitor center, we stocked up on some homemade tablet and enjoyed the exhibition. The visitor center is a great stop for anyone whether they are hiking or not as it gives you some interesting information about the trail to go with a detailed 3D map of the Speyside Way. Heading back out on the trail, happy to be stocked up on emergency sugar we continued following the river into Craigellachie for dinner.
This was the walk in which we encountered the most life, ducks made their way up the river, fish leaped out of the water to see how big they could make a splash, and dogs faithfully followed their owners to their favorite hunting & fishing locations. It was fascinating watching the fly fisherman make their lines dance across the water in the hopes of enticing a gullible fish to go for their handcrafted fly. Taking in the life thriving around you while listening to the cadence of your step with nothing but the sound of your own breath intermingled with the rustling wind, rushing water and chattering birds is the most serene and freeing way to escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and truly feel free.As it had come so highly recommended, we were disappointed to learn that the Craigellachie Hotel was fully booked for dinner. However, continuing on to the Highlander Inn was hardly a hardship as it was hands down the most quaint, characterful, & homely pub we visited on the entire trip. With a whisky selection to rival the Mash Tun, we sampled a few (relatively) rare drams and after soups to warm the soul, we shared an order of the most delicious fish & chips and a perfectly cooked steak & ale pie.
Perfectly sated we rolled out of the Highlander Inn and wandered back towards the Craigellachie Hotel to experience the legendary whisky bar that had only just been reopened with a vengeance. The bar, more like a library of whisky, boasts 750 bottles of Scotch filling every inch of the bookshelves surrounding the room. Large inviting chairs and a wide open balcony inspire a true sense of luxury as you cradle your dram enjoying every last drop of the whisky you never though you would be able to try.
Finally ready to head back to Claggan Farm with the clock approaching midnight, we decided to do the sensible thing and cheat by taking a taxi back to the farm.
Day 4:
The final day of our hike had finally arrived. We gathered our things and set off to Dufftown, Malt Whisky Capital of the World and home of the Autumn Speyside Whisky Festival. The road from Craigellachie to Dufftown takes you past several distilleries including Dewars, Balvenie, and Glenfiddich along with intriguing tourist stops such as the Speyside Cooperage and the Dufftown - Keith Malt Whisky Rail Road Line. With Dewars closed to the public and Balvenie impossible to get a reservation for without booking a minimum of 6 weeks in advance, we were excited to stop at the cooperage and Glenfiddich.
There are few trades quite as fascinating to watch as coopering. Not only providing us with a decent snack and a basic education on the production of casks, the Speyside Cooperage allows guests to observe the coopers hard at work refurbishing each and every cask that rolls their way. Standing with my face glued to the window, we remained watching the coopers prove their mastery of their trade long after the rest of our group had left admiring the skill and dedication they put into perfecting each and every cask.
With Glenfiddich just down the road and not wishing to spend the whole day watching coopers work, we set back out onto the road to venture on to the next distillery on our list. Beginning to wander along the road, we were pleasantly surprised when a cheerful couple offered to give us a lift. Heartily accepting their offer, we bummed a ride the 3 miles to the distillery, and arrived with plenty of time to spare before our Glenfiddich 'Explorers' tour was due to start.
The tour was a brilliant success and we left excited for the kick off of the whisky festival. Hiking along the Speyside Way was the best way to visit the distilleries because, not only are you being sensible and not drinking & driving, but you learn to understand and appreciate how the Scottish wild, protected so dearly by the whisky angels, plays such a huge role in the flavor and depth of your whisky. So take it from me, if you are a Single Malt Scotch lover and you find yourself in Scotland, pull on your hiking boots and dedicate some time to hiking along the Speyside Way.
