Hiking along the Speyside Way (Glenlivet-Aberlour)

Day 1:

Getting dropped off at Glenlivet on a dry but ominously grey day with just enough blue sky to patch a sailors trousers, we hiked back towards Ballindalloch along the Speyside Way Tomintoul Spur. The Speyside Way follows  the River Spey however, if you fancy a detour there are several spurs you can fork off on. This particular 17 mile spur takes you along the River Avon to the River Livet past the Glenlivet distillery and on to Tomintoul. The Tomintoul spur is mostly uphill and was by far the most challenging (and rewarding) leg of the trip.

Luckily for us there was a diversion and after hiking along it a good ways, we managed to get a little lost. Going into full adventure mode we backtracked and eventually managed to find our way back to the trail, coming across a helpful map to show us where we were and how to better navigate the area. Comparing the map of the Glenlivet Estate to our Speyside Way hiking map, we figured out how to get to the farm that would lead us to the deceptively large Hill of Deskie.

As we hiked up the Hill of Deskie we watched the Glenlivet distillery shrink behind us, eventually disappearing completely into the distance just as we rounded the top of the hill. Prepared for rain that never came, we were pleased to be in our waterproofs as the grass damp with dew soaked our bottom halves. The only life we saw along the trail was the occasional herd of cows meandering away while maintaining a watchful eye as we traveled through their land.

Luckily for us the portion of the trail that we hiked (in addition to the extra mileage required to reach the B&B) was 11 miles instead of the 20 it would have been had we hiked in from Tomintoul. Checking in to the Woodville B&B long after night fall, we showered and fell into bed having completed our first day. I wouldn't necessarily say the Woodville B&B is the ideal place to stay if you are travelling on foot as it is off the A95 at the top of a hill. However, the cheerful owner, heavenly bed, gorgeous en-suite rooms, scrumptious breakfast, and stunning setting, made it our favorite B&B of the whole trip making it well worth the extra effort we had to take to get there.

Day 2:

Up early to be greeted by stunning blue skies, we set off from our Bed & Breakfast well fed & rested to tackle our second and longest day. We cut through the fields, straight down from our B&B towards the Speyside Way where we  began our 17 mile journey towards Craigellachie. If one were to simply follow the trail to Craigellachie, it is about a 12 mile walk, however with the detours we had planned we were looking forward to the extra 5. Walking along the trail you are following the road upon which the old rail road tracks used to lie. Once again not passing a single soul, we made our way down the trail in total tranquility, taking in the birds song and the rustling of the wind in the trees. Every so often we would cross over an old bridge and as we walked we could see the river rushing below us through the gaps in between the boards. We eventually turned off the trail and made our way up the B9138 towards Marypark turning on the A95 to visit the Glenfarclas Distillery.

An old copper still glowing in the daylight draws you in towards this stunning little distillery. Tucked away in wide open fields far from the road and protected by the Glenfarclas Woods, it appeared as if it were the set of an old film. Walking through the front doors of the visitors center, we were disappointed to learn that we had unfortunately barely just missed the tour. However, all was not lost as we were able to have a tasting to sample the full range of flavors found in the 10 through 30 year old whiskies. It was here that I learnt that Glenfarclas, a 175 year old family run distillery, produces my favorite dram of whisky, the incredibly smooth Glenfarclas 21. Yet despite my pallate's protests we had to head on from Glenfarclas and kick it in to double time in order to make it to Aberlour in time for our tour.

Hiking up the A95 is not ideal, and had we had the time to head back to the Speyside Way and hike along the trail we happily would have. However, on a deadline with the clock counting down to our tour, we legged it down the A95 at a pace of 4 miles an hour arriving at Aberlour a little under an hour and a half later with 10 minutes to spare.

Our tour of Aberlour Distillery was top notch and by the time we left we were several drams in and desperate for a hot meal meaning the only answer was to wander down to the Mash Tun in the hopes of getting a table for dinner. Dinner at the Mash Tun is a must in Aberlour. It is true one is not spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out in Aberlour but the choices available to you will totally spoil you! The Mash Tun is a renowned whisky bar with a brilliant menu and a wide range of drams. Luckily for us, we arrived an hour before food was served and were fortunate enough to snag the only table which hadn't been pre-booked. It is always fun watching locals mingle with tourists, so we sat and people watched as we sampled a few more drams of whisky before dinner. By the time dinner was served the whisky had warmed us to our bones and we devoured our delectable meals in an instant. You can not go wrong when picking out a savory dish at the Mash Tun. (As a bit of a sticky toffee pudding connoisseur, I must admit I was slightly disappointed with their sticky toffee but everything else was to die for!)