Bones & Gold

Motorcycles whizz by

with whole families piled high.

6

7

5

Maimed victims wander the streets,

an ever present example of their history.

arm

leg

eye

The stark contrast of bones and gold

reminds you of the past governments control.

starvation

temples

...sigh

A population incredibly young

the unfortunate result of a mind unstrung.

8

25

39

Revival from a dictators regime

slowly progressing for the world to see.

agriculture

weddings

smiles

The greatest historic treasures still stand

showing this once was a wealthy land.

temples

jewels

shrines

Inspiration unfolds

Learning stories unknown

and for these you must standby...

Phnom Penh (during my visit), a dry & dusty city, filled with people, and overflowing with history. Every road busy with motorcycles zipping around, loaded down with families or various goods for sale. Looking around there appear to be no locals over the age of 60. Yet, despite their youth, the faces looking back at us were weathered far beyond their years exposing the hardships of their lives that were hidden so well by their radiant smiles.

I feel that when you are lucky enough to find yourself in Cambodia it is important that you visit the "killing fields" which act not only as a memorial to those lost but as a reminder of how a lethal government can tear a country apart. All over the world, we are taught about the holocaust, yet we rarely learn of the horrors occurring elsewhere, in Rwanda or Cambodia or Darfur. In Cambodia, approximately 2 million people lost their lives to the rule of the Khmer Rouge and one of the most famous memorials for them is not far from Phnom Penh. Visiting Choeung Ek, you find yourself face to face with the horror these people lived through. The mind absorbing information at a rate you forgot it could.


The Choeung Ek Genocidal center, now a memorial, was a burial sight during the genocide found after the fall of the Khmer Rouge. Entering the center grounds, the first thing you see is a Buddhist style tower. As you approach it your eyes focus in on the 5,000 skulls of the victims found in the orchard. A chilling visual of the horror that took place here. Visitors all walk in silence, trying to process such horror which is simply beyond comprehension, only daring to whisper to their companions in order to release some of the agony baring down on their souls.  Wandering through the orchard you are surrounded by 86 mass graves that at one point contained nearly 9,000 people. The ground, appearing as if it were struck by a meteor shower, is covered with craters that once served as mass graves.

Field of Mass Graves

Leaving Choeung Ek, there are no words to say. So many are running through your mind yet your mouth can not begin to utter them. As the deathly orchard fades into the distance you are able to talk, to process, and to breathe again. Don't just visit Choeung Ek and be done for the day, go early so you can do more after you leave! Have your faith in humanity rocked, and then visit the Royal Palace & the Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh.

Arriving at the Royal Palace we emerged from our tuk tuk to the out stretched hands of crippled civilians. Standing, bare handed, in the middle of the street there is nothing you can do, and given what you have just witnessed it tears your soul into pieces. Leaving, you are barely able to collect enough of those pieces to make it inside the gates where you buy your tickets. Mind flashing back to Choeung Ek you forget for a moment where you are, until you enter the palace grounds and hope blossoms in the depth of your heart.

The Silver Pagoda

Before you lies a brilliant complex of stunning grounds and beautiful buildings, a sparkling example from the past of the strength and wealth Cambodia is capable of achieving once again. The golden roofs shimmer in the sun and the bright white walls are so clean they are blinding. Colorful murals grace some of the walls, telling the story of Cambodia's distant past.  Elaborate Buddhist gates garnish important door ways and impressive royal memorials scatter the grounds.



Each building tells a different story, teaching you about the country's rich culture. From a hall filled with carriages (for both horses and elephants) to a building featuring displays of traditional Cambodian costume & dance, you learn of the grace of the people.

Although the Khmer Rouge had banned religion during their reign the Buddhist presence here is strong. Numerous Buddhist monks can be spotted wandering the grounds to the various Buddhist temples. These temples house religious artifacts of great significance, allowing you to see Buddha's foot prints, peer at sacred Buddhist text, and show respect to Buddhist statues.

The Silver Pagoda is by far the most impressive building on the grounds. A solid silver tiled floor leads the way to an emerald Buddha cloaked in fabulous gold & jeweled garments which are appropriate for the season. Sitting on his throne he towers above you encircled by gold and priceless jewels. The emerald Buddha does not sit alone, below him stand several gold Buddhas featuring impressive diamonds. Shocked by the beauty and grandeur before me, I found myself having to collect my jaw from the floor in order to leave. (Photography was unfortunately not permitted within the Silver Pagoda, so I am unable to show you the grandeur within the pagoda.)

Downtown Phnom Penh

Leaving the royal grounds, we hopped on a tuk tuk to take us back to our hotel. Passing the people, faces all wondrously glowing with beautiful smiles. It is hard to comprehend the depth of their strength. Maimed and scarred if not visibly then internally, hungry and tired from hard work for little return, yet their smiles rarely waiver. The character of the people is truly inspiring. The ostentatious tower of wealth in the Silver Pagoda was a breathtaking contrast to the tower of skulls in "the Killing Fields". Serving as a glowing example of Cambodia's former wealth, and begging the question of how this can be achieved not for the government but for the people that make Cambodia so unbelievably remarkable.