Hiking along the Speyside Way (Aberlour - Dufftown)

Day 3:

Having arrived at Claggan Farm B&B late the night before, we weren't actually back up and out on the trail until 10am. It was yet again a crystal clear day and stepping out of the farmhouse we packed our jackets into our bags and put our sunglasses on to face the sun. The owners of Claggan Farm were incredibly friendly & helpful, going out of their way to direct us to the Macallan Distillery via a field of happy cows. Sticking to the fence line we did our best to avoid the various obstacles scattered along the way. From bogs to cow dung, ravines to trees, we were busily navigating the fields that would deliver us to the distillery in record time. Hiking up the hill following a tractor path into the back side of the Macallan Distillery and past all the warehouses, that ever so familiar smell of "the angel's share" began to waft past our noses and our excitement began to build.


Our tour of the Macallan distillery was simply put, superb, and we left feeling like proud whisky-know-it-alls. Extremely satisfied with our experience at Macallan we decided to dedicate the rest of our day to the trail and hiked back along the River Spey in towards Aberlour before heading back up into Craigellachie. The tall grass still speckled with morning dew soaked our boots and kept us moving. The river is such a brilliant blue and the bank is covered in such rich greenery you expect to see the Scottish whisky angels dancing around on the other side of the Spey to the rhythm of the water rushing over the stones.

Only leaving the trail to stop in the Speyside Way visitor center, we stocked up on some homemade tablet and enjoyed the exhibition. The visitor center is a great stop for anyone whether they are hiking or not as it gives you some interesting information about the trail to go with a detailed 3D map of the Speyside Way. Heading back out on the trail, happy to be stocked up on emergency sugar we continued following the river into Craigellachie for dinner.

This was the walk in which we encountered the most life, ducks made their way up the river, fish leaped out of the water to see how big they could make a splash, and dogs faithfully followed their owners to their favorite hunting & fishing locations. It was fascinating watching the fly fisherman make their lines dance across the water in the hopes of enticing a gullible fish to go for their handcrafted fly. Taking in the life thriving around you while listening to the cadence of your step with nothing but the sound of your own breath intermingled with the rustling wind, rushing water and chattering birds is the most serene and freeing way to escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and truly feel free.

As it had come so highly recommended, we were disappointed to learn that the Craigellachie Hotel was fully booked for dinner. However, continuing on to the Highlander Inn was hardly a hardship as it was hands down the most quaint, characterful, & homely pub we visited on the entire trip. With a whisky selection to rival the Mash Tun, we sampled a few (relatively) rare drams and after soups to warm the soul, we shared an order of the most delicious fish & chips and a perfectly cooked steak & ale pie.


Perfectly sated we rolled out of the Highlander Inn and wandered back towards the Craigellachie Hotel to experience the legendary whisky bar that had only just been reopened with a vengeance. The bar, more like a library of whisky, boasts 750 bottles of Scotch filling every inch of the bookshelves surrounding the room. Large inviting chairs and a wide open balcony inspire a true sense of luxury as you cradle your dram enjoying every last drop of the whisky you never though you would be able to try.

Finally ready  to head back to Claggan Farm with the clock approaching midnight, we decided to do the sensible thing and cheat by taking a taxi back to the farm.

Day 4:

The final day of our hike had finally arrived. We gathered our things and set off to Dufftown, Malt Whisky Capital of the World and home of the Autumn Speyside Whisky Festival. The road from Craigellachie to Dufftown takes you past several distilleries including Dewars, Balvenie, and Glenfiddich along with intriguing tourist stops such as the Speyside Cooperage and the Dufftown - Keith Malt Whisky Rail Road Line. With Dewars closed to the public and Balvenie impossible to get a reservation for without booking a minimum of 6 weeks in advance, we were excited to stop at the cooperage and Glenfiddich.

There are few trades quite as fascinating to watch as coopering. Not only providing us with a decent snack and a basic education on the production of casks, the Speyside Cooperage allows guests to observe the coopers hard at work refurbishing each and every cask that rolls their way. Standing with my face glued to the window, we remained watching the coopers prove their mastery of their trade long after the rest of our group had left admiring the skill and dedication they put into perfecting each and every cask.

With Glenfiddich just down the road and not wishing to spend the whole day watching coopers work, we set back out onto the road to venture on to the next distillery on our list. Beginning to wander along the road, we were pleasantly surprised when a cheerful couple offered to give us a lift. Heartily accepting their offer, we bummed a ride the 3 miles to the distillery, and arrived with plenty of time to spare before our Glenfiddich 'Explorers' tour was due to start.

The tour was a brilliant success and we left excited for the kick off of the whisky festival. Hiking along the Speyside Way was the best way to visit the distilleries because, not only are you being sensible and not drinking & driving, but you learn to understand and appreciate how the Scottish wild, protected so dearly by the whisky angels, plays such a huge role in the flavor and depth of your whisky. So take it from me, if you are a Single Malt Scotch lover and you find yourself in Scotland, pull on your hiking boots and dedicate some time to hiking along the Speyside Way.

Hiking along the Speyside Way (Glenlivet-Aberlour)

Day 1:

Getting dropped off at Glenlivet on a dry but ominously grey day with just enough blue sky to patch a sailors trousers, we hiked back towards Ballindalloch along the Speyside Way Tomintoul Spur. The Speyside Way follows  the River Spey however, if you fancy a detour there are several spurs you can fork off on. This particular 17 mile spur takes you along the River Avon to the River Livet past the Glenlivet distillery and on to Tomintoul. The Tomintoul spur is mostly uphill and was by far the most challenging (and rewarding) leg of the trip.

Luckily for us there was a diversion and after hiking along it a good ways, we managed to get a little lost. Going into full adventure mode we backtracked and eventually managed to find our way back to the trail, coming across a helpful map to show us where we were and how to better navigate the area. Comparing the map of the Glenlivet Estate to our Speyside Way hiking map, we figured out how to get to the farm that would lead us to the deceptively large Hill of Deskie.

As we hiked up the Hill of Deskie we watched the Glenlivet distillery shrink behind us, eventually disappearing completely into the distance just as we rounded the top of the hill. Prepared for rain that never came, we were pleased to be in our waterproofs as the grass damp with dew soaked our bottom halves. The only life we saw along the trail was the occasional herd of cows meandering away while maintaining a watchful eye as we traveled through their land.

Luckily for us the portion of the trail that we hiked (in addition to the extra mileage required to reach the B&B) was 11 miles instead of the 20 it would have been had we hiked in from Tomintoul. Checking in to the Woodville B&B long after night fall, we showered and fell into bed having completed our first day. I wouldn't necessarily say the Woodville B&B is the ideal place to stay if you are travelling on foot as it is off the A95 at the top of a hill. However, the cheerful owner, heavenly bed, gorgeous en-suite rooms, scrumptious breakfast, and stunning setting, made it our favorite B&B of the whole trip making it well worth the extra effort we had to take to get there.

Day 2:

Up early to be greeted by stunning blue skies, we set off from our Bed & Breakfast well fed & rested to tackle our second and longest day. We cut through the fields, straight down from our B&B towards the Speyside Way where we  began our 17 mile journey towards Craigellachie. If one were to simply follow the trail to Craigellachie, it is about a 12 mile walk, however with the detours we had planned we were looking forward to the extra 5. Walking along the trail you are following the road upon which the old rail road tracks used to lie. Once again not passing a single soul, we made our way down the trail in total tranquility, taking in the birds song and the rustling of the wind in the trees. Every so often we would cross over an old bridge and as we walked we could see the river rushing below us through the gaps in between the boards. We eventually turned off the trail and made our way up the B9138 towards Marypark turning on the A95 to visit the Glenfarclas Distillery.

An old copper still glowing in the daylight draws you in towards this stunning little distillery. Tucked away in wide open fields far from the road and protected by the Glenfarclas Woods, it appeared as if it were the set of an old film. Walking through the front doors of the visitors center, we were disappointed to learn that we had unfortunately barely just missed the tour. However, all was not lost as we were able to have a tasting to sample the full range of flavors found in the 10 through 30 year old whiskies. It was here that I learnt that Glenfarclas, a 175 year old family run distillery, produces my favorite dram of whisky, the incredibly smooth Glenfarclas 21. Yet despite my pallate's protests we had to head on from Glenfarclas and kick it in to double time in order to make it to Aberlour in time for our tour.

Hiking up the A95 is not ideal, and had we had the time to head back to the Speyside Way and hike along the trail we happily would have. However, on a deadline with the clock counting down to our tour, we legged it down the A95 at a pace of 4 miles an hour arriving at Aberlour a little under an hour and a half later with 10 minutes to spare.

Our tour of Aberlour Distillery was top notch and by the time we left we were several drams in and desperate for a hot meal meaning the only answer was to wander down to the Mash Tun in the hopes of getting a table for dinner. Dinner at the Mash Tun is a must in Aberlour. It is true one is not spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out in Aberlour but the choices available to you will totally spoil you! The Mash Tun is a renowned whisky bar with a brilliant menu and a wide range of drams. Luckily for us, we arrived an hour before food was served and were fortunate enough to snag the only table which hadn't been pre-booked. It is always fun watching locals mingle with tourists, so we sat and people watched as we sampled a few more drams of whisky before dinner. By the time dinner was served the whisky had warmed us to our bones and we devoured our delectable meals in an instant. You can not go wrong when picking out a savory dish at the Mash Tun. (As a bit of a sticky toffee pudding connoisseur, I must admit I was slightly disappointed with their sticky toffee but everything else was to die for!)

Speyside Way Malt Whisky Trail - Plan Your Trip Today!

There is no better way to dive into the world of Single Malt Whisky then to embark on a distillery adventure marathon along the Speyside Way Malt Whisky Trail. If one were so fortunate as to have unlimited time & money, one could easily visit all of the distilleries along the trail. However, with the number of distilleries spotted across Speyside, if you are the average walker with a deadline, you will have to make some tough choices & decide which distilleries are going to the make the cask.

There are many companies you can have organize your walk. They book your B&Bs, organize your baggage transfer, and provide you with maps and timelines (Check out Macs Adventure or Absolute Escapes). You still have to book & pay for all of the distillery tours but the logistics are all organized for you.  However, as I am a person who gets a kick out of planning trips my own way, I decided it would be best if we carried our bags along the way and saved some money.


Not having enough time to hike the entire trail,
the way  I wanted to, I chose a specific section of the trail based on the distilleries within it and planned our hike accordingly. Typically the trail is hiked from North to South as the terrain becomes more challenging as you work your way south towards the hills. However, with the distilleries we wanted to visit, the time we had available, and the tempting Whisky Festival at the end of our week, we decided to travel it in reverse working our way North. With the basics figured out we finally had it sussed, we deciding to hike from Glenlivet to Strathisla along the Speyside Way Malt Whisky Trail for 4 days, our goal was to stop at as many distilleries as possible on the way.

In pursuit of the ultimate Speyside distilleries experience, I got hard at work to plan accordingly, doing the maths and making the calls to determine what the best plan of action would be. The key to planning your own whisky hike is using the official Speyside Way Trail Map as a guide (be sure to buy the Harvey Map). This is the only way to accurately gauge your planned mileage for each day and book your accommodation (or pick your campsites) and distillery tours accordingly. Just don't forget to be generous with your time. Sitting at a desk planning a trip, it is easy to become over zealous with your estimated mileage and pace, making it challenging for you to actually enjoy the trail as you are constantly rushing to make it to the next scheduled tour.

Once the distilleries had been selected, I booked the Bed and Breakfasts (B&Bs), and then booked our tours with the distilleries. Luckily for us, three weeks out, the only tour that was fully booked was Balvenie, and now the only challenge would be putting in the miles to make it to each distillery in time for our tours!

Autumn Speyside Whisky Festival

Having hiked 55 miles with the goal of ending up in Dufftown in time for the Autumn Speyside Whisky Festival, we were excited to find ourselves arriving in a festive little town bubbling with character.

The festival consists of an extensive list of exclusive activities for Scotch lovers from all walks of life to attend. From a tour of Glenfarclas featuring 7 whiskies from 7 decades to behind the scenes tours of the Speyside Cooperage, attendees are spoiled for choice (provided they can cough up the dough).

The Whisky Shop got the festivities rolling with a whisky tasting event to get the palate warmed up and the nose tuned to perfection. The Big Dram, aptly named for the 700ml dram poured right at the start, was lead by the owner of the Whisky Shop himself, whisky connoisseur Mike Lord. Lord is not only funny and intriguing but an absolute genius when it comes to Malt Whisky. Myself not the biggest whisky drinker in the world, I was expecting to get a bit of an education but I was so drawn in by the history and delicacies of each whisky it surprised me.

A huge success to start off the festival, we left warm and buzzing with excitement. Heading straight to the Stuart Arms with a new friend we had met at The Big Dram, we devoured some scrumptious fish & chips and called it a night.

Having slept like a dream at our quaint B&B Fournet House, we woke up to a mouthwatering breakfast to prepare us for our second and (sadly for us) last day of the festival. Having tasted a delicious dram of Mortlach at The Big Dram the night before our excitement to visit the Mortlach distillery was palpable. Mortlach Distillery is generally closed to the public, however for the lucky few that manage to make their way to Dufftown for the Autumn festival, there is an opportunity to have a guided tour complete with an uncommon dram to finish it off.

This exclusive tour of Mortlach was by far the best of all the tours on our trip. Each distillery has its own unique quirks and nuances but Mortlach had several features that made it unlike any other. One of the key tools required for making whisky is a still. Each batch of wort goes first through a wash still and then a spirit still before it can be put into casks to transform into whisky. A key reason why each distillery's whisky tastes so differently is because they all have specifically shaped stills. The wash stills are all identical and the spirit stills are all identical creating a consistent and unique base to their whisky. Mortlach however, has three wash stills and three spirit stills all of which are a different shape and size that work together to make their whisky, giving their new spirit an incredible depth of body and flavor.

Visiting a distillery and touring the grounds, warehouses, and production facilities introduces you to the soul of their whisky and helps you to understand the personality of the dram. Touring Mortlach was like getting to meet a celebrity and finally understanding what makes them who they are. This is the real charm of the Autumn Speyside Whisky Festival. It is about being introduced both to the whiskies that you love and the whiskies you have never met before in order to understand what makes them who they are and appreciate the flavors as they roll across your tongue.