Monday, March 24, 2014

Cross the Aegean to Dante's Gate






Leaves dancing through abandoned streets, 
lined with colorful shutters and doors. 

Silence interrupted only by the the beat 
of the waves splashing against the shore. 

Buildings stripped down thread bear, 
abandoned belongings everywhere. 

Window frames with no panes, 
empty doors to buildings with no floors 
and crumbling stairs beyond repair. 

The cheerful shops now covered in dust.
Handles and locks caked in rust.
A world long since, untouched.

An eerie chill in the air, 
one can not help but be aware 
of the people whose lives were so unfair.






An island fortress, built to keep people out but used to keep people in, not for what they had done but for what they had contracted. Spinalonga, originally designed by the Venetians to protect the ports, was transformed into a leper colony in 1903. Now abandoned by human life it is open for tourists via a short ferry ride. We caught a ferry to the island from Elounda (a city in Crete) early in the morning and were the only people we saw on the island for most of our visit. 

Meandering through the town, peering through dusty shop windows and walking into the various rooms open to tourists, we were captivated by the island and desperate to learn more about it. Some buildings appeared to have been recently abandoned only leaving enough time for the dust to settle. However, others were decrepit and sure to collapse in on themselves if the wind blew the wrong way. Climbing the stairs, leaving the eerie aura of the town we arrived atop the city walls, to be greeted by the most stunning views of Crete and the sparkling blue Aegean. Such beauty, simply mesmerizing, could only have brought joy to anyone looking upon it. Walking along the walls, admiring the view, only our curiosity dragged us back to the town.













Standing at Dante's Gate
Leaving the walls and continuing along the cobblestone streets, we turned down a wide ramp, finding ourselves facing "Dante's Gate." The massive iron gate, once an entrance for the lepers, now featured a rusted old lock and chain sealing it shut. This ominous gate, towering over us, gave me chills, inspiring us to move on and learn more about the peculiar island and its purpose. This odd little ghost town, complete with the look and feel of a quaint authentically Greek town, gave the overall feeling of incarceration. However, despite the overwhelming sense of imprisonment, in a way the island was supposed to provide liberation.







Leprosy is a ghastly infectious disease affecting the skin and nerves, deteriorating overall quality of life. While not fatal on its own it is incredibly painful, scarring its victims appearance often being perceived as rotting from the inside out. Due to their appearance lepers were unable to hide their condition and were outcast from society. The Spinalonga leper colony gave these unfortunate souls somewhere to live as normal a life as they possibly could, while providing them with food, shelter and the medical treatment they needed.

Exploring this ancient structure so rich in history, your eyes are opened to the past and enlightened towards the future. The concept of building a town for "diseased" people to live away from society baffles me, because in the world I live in today we have different means to help people. The massive advances in science and technology in the past 100 years are mind boggling and one can not help but wonder where we will be 100 years from now.

Spinalonga was somewhere that people suffering from this cruel infectious disease, shunned by society for an illness which at the time could not be cured, could feel slightly normal. Exploring this abandoned town with a cherished friend it was a reminder not only how lucky we are but how important our actions are. My mother's favorite saying comes to mind, "treat others as you wish to be treated," and Spinalonga was a golden example as to why.

When you next find yourself in Greece make your way to Spinalonga, and take the time to explore this unorthodox island. I think you will be surprised by your reaction, if not by the history then at least by the views.




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