Walking on Ice

Standing in the middle of a massive glacier watching your helicopter rise up into the air before disappearing down the side of the mountain, life becomes serenely surreal as you listen to the ice below your feet groan in response to its ever changing facade. Alone on a glacier with a guide and a group of 5 other explorers we were left with a pair of crampons each and time enough to trek across the glacier in search of the architectural wonders of our magical ice palace.

Luckily for us we were blessed with not only a small group for our heli-hike but hands down the most fantastic guide! Pete Ross, our fearless guide who paved the way for our adventure, was incredibly knowledgeable about the glacier, teaching us about the enormous slab of ice while weaving the ancient legend of the glaciers deep into our hearts.

Stomping around on the ice, making sure to dig our crampons in as deeply as possible, we trekked towards the edge of a glacial waterfall, slid through an ice cave and were even able to taste the cold dry glacier water forming pools both deep and shallow across the surface of the glacier.

Looking back at the photographs it almost doesn't feel real. Taking a scenic helicopter ride up the side of a glacier in order to hike across the ice and find the latest formations all while listening to the ice groaning beneath us. I still can not believe this wasn't a dream!

The Franz Josef Glacier sits in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park on the Western coast of New Zealand's South Island and is an absolute must on any nature-loving-adventure-seeker's bucket list. Young or old, male or female, kiwi local or tourist, this is an absolute must while in New Zealand. The Heli Hike was hands down the best experience I have ever had while on my travels and it has given me memories I will cherish forever.

Interested in Your Own Franz Josef Adventure?

The glacier is quickly disappearing and will likely be nothing more than a legend in 50 odd years, so do not delay! Make your plans and head out there before it is too late!

Logistics: Why not take a road trip? There are buses and tour groups you can book with to get down there from any of the large cities in the South Island but renting a car and driving there truly is a fabulous way to go! That way you are on your time and can enjoy the amazing drive into and out of Franz.


Accommodation: Franz Josef is definitely a tourist town so there is no shortage of places to stay, from hostels to hotels you can take you pick but my personal suggestion would be the Scenic Hotel. Not only did we have a stunning view, but I had the best nights sleep of the whole journey. The bed was like sleeping on a cloud and even the complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and soap left you feeling cleaner than ever before.

Exploration: There are a few different options for experiencing the glacier but my recommendation is without a doubt the Heli Hike with the Franz Josef Glacier Guides. The scenic tour followed by the two hour hike is enough to satisfy without overwhelming anyone. Flying half way up the glacier and hiking across it while learning the history behind it is fascinating and truly a once in a lifetime experience. While other helicopter tours will take you up for a snow landing, this one allows you to really experience the glacier in all of her glory!


Wanting to explore the world of the Kiwi's for yourself? Read about the rest of my adventures in New Zealand to learn from my experiences and get some great tips!

Walking trail in Franz Josef

Arriving at the Helipad 

Scenic Helicopter Tour

View of the Glacial Waterfall from Above

Finally Landed and Standing on the Glacier!

Our Awesome Guide Pete Scoping Out a Path

Taking a Shortcut by Sliding Through the Ice

Traces of the mountain below the glacier beginning to surface as the glacier melts.

Standing in front of an amazing ice cave with my 'fella' explorer.

Heading back down the glacier towards the landing site to await the helicopter.

View from the chopper on the flight back to Franz, Notice the path formed by the glacial melt on the bottom left!

Stars in the Night Sky over the Glacier

Oh So Hoppy!

Travelling around the world, I often find that one of the best ways to get in touch with the local culture is by experiencing the local brew. Hence while travelling through New Zealand I made a point to try the best local pint on offer each night. I had fun sampling the Kiwi specialties, but I quickly found myself becoming particularly partial to a beer called Radler from the Monteith's Brewing Co. The Radler bier is light on the hops with a zip of lemony flavor and is so refreshing it could melt all your stress away. In fact, I enjoyed the beer so much that when I wasn't consuming my non-alcoholic Kiwi drink of choice, L&P, I would find myself ordering a Radler. Due to our new found infatuation with this tasty concoction of hops & grain we decided to dedicate a stop in Greymouth to visit the Monteith's Brewing Co.

The Monteith's brewery is a gorgeous little bar/restaurant & brewery in a tiny seaside town. If you are lucky enough to attend one of the four tours a day, you can journey behind the scenes in stylish wellies to learn how beer is created in Monteith's Country.

Boasting a fantastic menu and tasty beer it is not just an educational stop for beer enthusiasts but a gastro-indulgence as well. Enticing tapas fill the menu along with their complimentary brew making it easy to order either the right food to go with your beer or the right beer to go with your food.

Unfortunately for us, we arrived as one tour had finished and several hours before the next was scheduled to start so we ordered our sampler rack and sat down to set our taste buds off on a bubbly adventure. Each wall has its own beer theme to educate or inspire guests as they consume whatever tasty indulgence they have chosen so although we had missed the tour we were not deprived of our hops & grain education. Our beer tasting came complete with a detailed explanation of the secrets behind the flavors of the six signature beers and the walls provided fascinating information about the history of the brewery.

By the time we had finished enjoying the delicious beer and mouthwatering munchies we were bubbling with joy and ready to spend the rest of the day on the beach. The Monteith's brewery was a definite highlight for both of us on our New Zealand trip and I would heartily recommend it to anyone making their way around New Zealand!

Starlight

Having found myself caught in the whirlwind that we call life, I find myself dreaming of my adventures and wishing life was always a series of giggles and grins. Yet, how can we know what it means to be happy if we never experience sadness? How can we appreciate true joy if we never experience pain?

No matter how smooth the sailing, you must always be ready for that rogue wave which is sure to come. Life throws obstacles at you to see how you will endure, how you will overcome them. Everyone faces different obstacles throughout life and those who refuse to get knocked down by them come out the other side ever stronger. 

With the last slew of waves that have been crashing my way I have been using my memories from the past and my dreams for the future to pull me through. On my trip to New Zealand I traveled new distances, reached new heights, and learnt much about myself (some of which I hadn't 't even realized until now.)

Driving 1500 miles in a hire car, hiking up mountains, trekking across glaciers, swimming in geothermal waters, and walking in the footsteps of hobbits my love for our world was reborn. As is to be expected, everything did not always go as planned. Wild weather seemed to be following us no matter where we went and we often found ourselves having arrived at our destination hidden amongst clouds of swirling rain.

I had been so excited to visit Lake Pukaki & Tekapo so I could look upon "The Lonely Mountain" from "Lake Town" however, when we arrived the mountain was hidden by a wall of clouds. Disappointed to be missing out on the Hobbit filming location's "gem" we were not going to let our spirits join the gloomy skies. So, despite little hope of the skies clearing, we decided to go for a day hike to the top of Mount John.

We wandered through the town, stopping to play in front of the lake and admire the views beyond. The infamous Church of the Good Shepherd lay just off in the distance so we made our way over to it before doubling back and beginning our hike up Mount John. The Church of Good Shepherd is a beautiful little church in the heart of one of the world's most beautiful locations. Even on a cloudy day the church was radiant and one could not help but feel a sense of tranquility around it.

We left the church smiling under spots of sunshine and made our way to the Tekapo spring where we would begin our hike up Mount John. No, the hike was not long, but with our packs it was a welcome challenge, and we grew stronger with every step. Half way up, the skies decided to cool us off and the rain washed away our sweat along with our grip on the ground. As our boots slipped in the mud we trudged the rest of the way up towards the summit of Mount John.

Tekapo is located within a National Dark Sky Reserve, and the summit of Mount John boasts a world renowned observatory and a fabulous little Astro Cafe. Reaching the end of the trail soaked and somewhat winded we enjoyed a well deserved snack while waiting for the invisible sun to set. The sky was a sheer blanket of clouds and we held on to little hope that it would clear to expose a night full of stars to us but ever the optimist we decided to wait nonetheless.

Long after the sun had set we found ourselves sitting under a pitch black sky, the occasional star making an appearance but definitely nothing to write home about. As the rumbling thunder began to roll towards us and lightening began to dance in the distance, it was time to go. We began to pack up our things and suddenly the sky above us opened to reveal the Milky Way Galaxy surrounded by an infinite number of stars. They say that every cloud has a silver lining and ours was a blanket of stars!

Dream of Steam in the Stream

New Zealand is a geothermal wonderland tucked away deep in the Southern Hemisphere. Driving through this stunning beacon of natural beauty there is almost always a glimpse of geothermal power escaping from the deepest depths of our complex planet. Streams of steam billow from the earth making money for the nation not just through the creation of power but through tourist attractions as well.


Natural hot springs, geothermal spas, thermal hot pools, whatever you call them, these all-natural hot bodies of water are never all that far away.  A popular tourist destination, you can rest assured that if this is on your New Zealand to do list, there is somewhere you can go and pay approximately $30 a person plus $5 a towel & $8 a robe to visit. However, don't be fooled by the mirage of elaborate marketing. Paying to visit one of these steaming hot pools is not a necessity as there are much more intimate locations you can frequent free of charge.

Hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous mountain that played Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) in the Lord of the Rings trilogy, we decided to drive to Wellington via Lake Taupo. Having arrived at Taupo peering through rushing windshield wipers flinging large droplets of rain off into the darkness of the night, we hoped that the night would deal with the storm and lead us into a beautiful morning so we could have a view of the real life fictional mountain.

No such luck. We woke to the sound of rain on our windows and all of our plans to visit the mountain were washed away. Though we were doomed to not visit the mountain we were determined not to let the day be a total wash. A friend (who lives in Auckland) had suggested a natural hot spring in Taupo that is a favorite spot for the locals and better yet, free of charge!

Spa Thermal Park, is a public park with expansive fields, a fabulous playground, and trails that take you down & around the Otumuheke thermal stream. The steamy stream flows into the frigid Waikato river creating a lovely swirl of hot and cold water mixing together enabling you to find the perfect place to relax.

It was an incredibly cold day and with the rain dribbling slowly down from the never ending grey clouds we made sure to wrap up warm and bring towels with us so we could dry off the moment we abandoned the comfort of the warm water. A cold wet day creates the perfect occasion to visit this hidden gem. Not only is the horde of usual rowdy visitors who often plague the river in the hot summer months deep in hibernation, but the wet winter conditions intermingle idyllically with the piping hot stream.

Not wanting any of the chilly Waikato to even have the chance to lick my back we continued over the bridge and up the stream to one of the many "private" entrances along the path. A beautiful little waterfall stood cascading into a shallow pool the size of a hot tub and the fog of mist & steam rising above it willed us to skimp out of our cozy winter warmers and slip gingerly into the inviting water. The pool was so hot that the minute my toes were dipped in I had no qualms sitting on the cold rocks to work my way in to the water slowly.

The rain dancing with the cold air as it sprinkled down on us was fabulously refreshing and helped us not over heat in the water. We spent ages in the water, getting in and out to regulate our temperature, just relaxing and enjoying the magic of the hidden treasure. When the time came to leave, it was a welcome escape from the heat to climb completely out into the cold air and dry off. (In fact, once we were completely dry and had bundled back up we found ourselves overheating as we were walking back to the car because we were still so warm from the water!)

Absolutely no doubt, hands down this was the best free stop on our entire trip, and in my top 5 favorite experiences in all of New Zealand. Whenever you next find yourself in New Zealand, especially in the winter, you simply must stop at one of the many thermal wonders and go for a dip. (Visit NZHotPools.co.nz for a full list of sites!)

Blue Skies appearing over Lake Taupo as we are leaving.

Swept Away in the Shire

I am incredibly proud to admit that I am a total Tolkien dweeb. I have had many Lord of the Rings trilogy marathon days and intend to continue on this tradition once the third and final Hobbit movie comes out. As a child one of my absolute favorite books of all time was the Hobbit. I had it on cassette, had two copies of the book in English and one copy in Spanish. In fact, the Hobbit (embarrassingly enough) was the first book I ever read in Spanish. Now then, with all of this now blatantly out in the open, I have to admit that Hobbiton was on the top of my list when it was decided we would be making our way to New Zealand for a road trip. 

New Zealand is a breathtaking place with an astonishing amount of things to do (especially for such a little island). Hence, we had carefully planned our trip to ensure it would be possible to see as much of the North and South islands as possible. Therefore, when there happened to be a cyclone blowing through the North Island, surrounded by torrential rain on the day of our Hobbiton tour there was absolutely no chance that we were going to miss it.

Hobbiton is by no means inexpensive. Probably one of the most expensive stops on our trip it cost us $75 (NZD) each to enter. Having arrived, we parked our car in a large parking lot, smack-dab in the middle of nowhere with not a single hobbit hole in sight, and bought our tickets from the visitor's center. With rain swirling around us and pockets turned out to pay for the tour we quickly began to wonder if our long awaited adventure was worth the wait. The large coach bus drove us through farmlands as the rain created its own unique rhythm to entertain along with the tour guide. 

We arrived on location, where we were happy to find a building stuffed to the gills with massive umbrellas for visitor use and otherwise naught but hills of grass. Following our tour guide precariously along a dirt path through an opening in the hill we were astonished by what lay on the other side. We had just walked through the passage where Frodo surprises Gandalf in the first film and emerged to find ourselves in the entrance to the Shire, gawking up at the stunning town of Hobbiton. Even through a veil of rain the mythical town is shrouded in an air of magic inspiring even the not so enthusiastic visitors to smile. 

Umbrellas in hand (more to carry us away then protect us from the rain) we made our way past 44 hobbit holes, the massive field where Bilbo celebrates his eleventy-first birthday, and all the way to the Green Dragon for some warm food and a pint of the Shire's finest. However, despite the gravity defying rain and spine chilling temperatures willing you to the Green Dragon at the end of the tour, the tour offered more than a warm hearth awaiting you with a cold pint. Our guide "Phoebe" was fabulous fun, providing an incredibly entertaining tour despite the gloomy day, educating us on loads of facts about the filming and the set. In addition to her wealth of knowledge and fun personality, she seemed to have this magical ability to make the rain subside at the best photo ops giving us a brief moment to snap umbrella free pictures and making her the wizard on set. The highlight for me was two hobbit holes in particular, Bag End (home of Frodo & Bilbo) & Sam's home (which you see at the end of the third Lord of the Rings film), both of which brought vivid images from the films to mind making it easy to imagine you were really in Middle Earth and Frodo himself could step out of the door at any moment. Sitting in the Green Dragon at the end of our tour, enjoying a tasty pint and some scrumptious pumpkin soup I could not help but feel I was lost in a dream. There I was, sitting in the shire, glancing out on Middle Earth through a window and above all the clouds that were trying to rain on my parade. Sun, snow, rain or cyclone. Tolkien fan or Tolkien stranger. Hobbiton is a must see location while travelling through New Zealand's North Island.