A Jaw Dropper? ... The Ajanta Caves

(Apologies for the long awaited post on Aurangabad! I am excited to share it with you now and hope that you enjoy it!) (Thanks for stopping by!!!)

On the Sleeper Bus

Aurangabad Adventures

Sleeper Bus from Mumbai to Aurangabad

Inside the Sleeper Bus

The best way to get to Aurangabad from Mumbai is on the sleeper bus. The bus picks you up at an average bus stop off a busy road in the center of Mumbai. When booking your tickets for the bus, it requires you to select your bunk. One side of the bus has singles and the other side has doubles so if you are travelling on your own and get a double it is highly likely that you will end up sleeping next to a stranger. There were three of us travelling so I shared a double with my bestie and our other friend managed to get a single near us. The bunk we had chosen was a top bunk, so we hopped up in our bunk, logged on to the free wifi and laid down to enjoy the ride. It is very strange lying down on a bus, when you add this to the fact that most of the roads the bus was taking were incredibly bumpy it made for an interesting night. Each and every bump would jolt you out of your sleep as your body flopped up and down like a dead fish. Another challenge is that you have to get off at the right stop. Now this might sound ridiculous, but you are getting restless sleep when you feel the bus stop and you have about 45 seconds to realize it is your stop, gather your things and depart the bus before it continues on its route. When the bus arrived at our stop I was putting on my shoes as I threw my backpack over my shoulders while hobbling off the bus and trying to put my hair back up. Don't even think about getting back on if you forget something because as soon as you are off the bus the doors shut and it is gone in a cloud of dust.

We found ourselves in a dusty town, trying to wake up and orient ourselves. Cars were flying by and once we had our wits about us we hailed a taxi to take us to our hotel. (The taxi driver was a lifesaver and ended up taking care of us for the entire trip, giving us fantastic rates for the two days we would be there which were less than half what the hotel could offer.)

The Ajanta caves are about two and a half hours from Aurangabad so we hired a driver for the day to take us there, wait for us, and then bring us back. Our driver did not waste any time getting us there and driving as though we were being chased by a gang with machine guns we flew down the dusty roads. There were definite moments I thought I would die in a head on collision or fly off the side of a sheer cliff face but thankfully we survived. (The driver broke up the journey with two stops, the first was a fantastic local place for breakfast and the second was a lonely shack in the middle of nowhere for drinks.)

Taxi Taking a Break

Once having finally arrived in the parking lot for the caves it was time to journey through a shopping market which was filled with overly aggressive salesmen one of which (Erik from store 73) gave me a crystal as a "gift" after I had refused it several times by placing it on my camera bag and walking away. Every shop keeper had a store number which they would repeat to you incessantly along with their name in the hope that you would remember them and stop in their shop on your way out. The idea of course is one of reciprocity, many people feel that they must go back to the shop because you were given a gift so it is the least you can do. Feeling like celebrities being swarmed by paparazzi we made it through. Surviving the markets, we found ourselves at a bus stop with at least 30 locals and waited to board the bus for the 15 minute journey to the caves.

Paying at the welcome desk, we ventured in towards a grassy field disguised as a tourist trap where we quickly bought more water and made our way towards the daunting steps. There were loads of men at the bottom trying to make money by carrying people up on sedan chairs, but we rushed past them and finally began the 2 mile trek. It was yet another scalding day and each step was matched by a bead of sweat on your forehead. We had made it through a full liter of water each by the top but the hike felt shorter than anticipated allowing us to find ourselves before we knew it, just above the caves, gawking at a panoramic view of 26 magnificent caves carved into the cliff face before us.

Looking down on the Ajanta Caves

Entrance to Cave #1

Upon approaching the caves there is little doubt as to whether or not you have to remove your trainers because of the scattered shoes around the entrance. Once you have navigated the various forms of footwear you enter the refreshingly cool cave. You walk into the first cave and as you begin to catch your breathe and take pleasure in the break from the heat your eyes slowly begin to adjust to the change in light and the breathe you had just regained is stolen by the exquisite site before you. There are 26 caves and each one has its own unique charm, and as you walk in and out of each one your breathe is stolen over and over again. The caves are tucked away into a sheer cliff face, looking like a stone cavity from afar but up close you are exposed to the most stunning elaborately carved Buddhist temple. The caves, most of which boast an intricately carved massive Buddha as the focal point, are embellished with fabulous carvings and paintings on the walls. The Buddha in each cave holds its own individual significance and displays the symbol specific to that place of worship. As the caves are too beautiful and intricate to sufficiently put into words, I felt it best to show you a few of my favorites for you to enjoy on your own. (See below)

It took us about 3 hours to get from the first cave to the 26th and with the heat beating down on us the horrendous sense of dehydration was beginning to settle in. The last place to buy clean water is at the tourist shop at the bottom of the hike, and choosing between carrying masses of water or making our water last, we had made the wrong decision. Having enjoyed each of Ajanta's hidden gems it was time to make our way back to re-hydrate and begin our journey back to Aurangabad.

After the bus journey from the cave site to the shops we followed some tourists around the back of the shopping market to a hole in the fence which opened into the parking lot where we met our driver. Having dodged the market shops, we were feeling rather accomplished and found our driver quickly. Two shop keepers spotted us on our escape and were notably outraged at our successful evasion. Luckily for us they were quickly distracted approaching tourists posing as the night's meal. On the drive back I wrapped my head with my dupatta and shut my eyes, only opening them upon our arrival at our drink stop for lunch and a liter of water each and a small can of coca cola.  We finished our dinner and exhaustion took me out again until we had arrived back at our hotel. It was now very late and time for showers and bed to get ready for Ellora.

Mumbai Monkeys

Day 5: Mumbai Misery

Oh what a day!!!! Not even sure where to begin. My head was pounding from the sun and I just could not cool down. Yet, despite suffering from what could only be dehydration, it had been a fabulous day summarized into 4 key parts: walking, monkeys, sea water, and photography.

(Mumbai is deceptively hot, the intense humidity and the burning Indian sun zap the water and the energy out of you faster than you can put it back in, so be careful and try to travel with a few liters of water in a camelback or something equivalent!)

We began the day with our hearty smoothies and were out the door on our way to the bus
 station. After checking with the attendant in the kiosk we joined the queue for the bus that would take us close to the University. The bus looked like it had just dropped out of London, whatever company makes the buses for the public transit system in the UK must make the busses in India as well because they were identical. Sitting in this familiar bus, looking out the window gave a completely different view of Mumbai from that which you experience on the train. The motorway was enormous and although it only had about 4 lanes  the cars were driving as though there were 7. The little streams we passed along the side of the road had pitch black water in them and were a not so pleasant reminder as to why one is not to consume the water in Mumbai. The bus dropped us a short walk from the university, and after running across the road we found ourselves on a lush tropical campus. Monkey's were flinging themselves around in the trees and chasing each other across the tarmac. I left my things in a cubby outside the library and sat inside for a while to write while my friend got on with her University business.

   The university has filtered water fountains that are safe to drink from so we refilled our water bottles here and legged it to the train station to ride in it to Colaba. We disembarked at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formally known as the Victoria terminus. Victoria Station was obviously built as a grand central terminus however, the grandeur was now hiding under the filth that had found its way on to every surface within. We made our way through swarms of people, escaping into the lesser crowds outside. As it was a nice day we decided to walk (for about 3 hours) to the Gateway of India stopping at a restaurant inside an art gallery for some lunch. It was a cute little indoor restaurant with an outdoor feel where the waiters all knew my friend. I tucked in to a chicken vindaloo roti roll that wasn't spicy at first but had me sniffling and inhaling a mango lassi by the last bite to cope with the heat.

  We finally made it to Gateway of India where we bought our tickets for the ferry to the Elephanta cave. We queued down a ramp on the back side of the gateway for the ferry and as we got closer to water level we were suddenly able to see that instead of walking down a pier and boarding the ferry  as had been expected, we would be boarding in a very different way. There was a row of three ferrys lined up next to one another, now you are probably thinking that means you can touch each boat from the dock but
you would be incorrect. The first boat is parallel to the dock, a concrete slab 2 inches deep in the Arabian Sea. The second boat was parallel to the first and the third parallel to the second. To board the ferry we waded across the slippery concrete through the sea water to wait for that perfect moment when the wave had reached its lowest point to jump on to the first boat. Having made it successfully through the first challenge we walked through the ferry and approached the second obstacle where a man stood patiently waiting. The two boats were lined up next to each other moving to their own
individual rhythm. Complete with slippery wooden decks either side the goal was to time your crossing just right so that you could simply step onto the other ferry without slipping and potentially falling in between two massive ferries into the Arabian Sea. Fortunately we were both successful at overcoming the second obstacle as well as the third which was exactly the same for the third and final ferry. After earning our seat on the ferry, we took a seat on the inner row of the first level, looking out onto the ocean while happily being in the shade. From here we watched as children got passed from boat to boat and the man on the receiving boat steadied the people that slipped so they wouldn't fall. (This method seemed to be the local favorite as it was how we got on and off the ferry all day.)

The boat ride was about an hour and incredibly pleasant except for when the black sea water of the Arabian Ocean would splash up in our faces. Before we knew it we had arrived at the island, a little wet but in good spirits and after managing to get off the ferry we began walking down an incredibly long pier. At the end there were a slew of carriages at the bottom of a massive staircase. Venturing up the hill, past countless shops, we were constantly passed by people being carried up on these strange carriages. (The carriages, otherwise known as sedan chairs, were basically chairs with long arms in the front and back, each resting on the shoulders of local men.) 

The Elephanta caves were amazing, so so beautiful. In some ways they reminded me of the temples in Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Walking in the caves was like walking into an impressive stone temple. The ornate pillars through the center and elaborate carvings lining the walls were simply unbelievable. The first cave was incredibly large taking several minutes walk around and truly appreciate. The other caves were not as large but were equally impressive in their own unique ways. It was an absolutely scorching day and being inside the caves provided some well needed respite from the sun. The temperature was so incredibly different that they almost felt air-conditioned. 

Having traveled a good distance up the hill we were now basically at the top and the views were gorgeous. There was a fence stopping you from tumbling down the steep slope, which the monkeys found to be a useful road. Jovial little monkeys were everywhere actively going from tree to tree, playing with each other,and stealing food from the unwary. There were three miniature baby monkeys being carried around that according to the guard, ranged between 10 and 15 days old. So so darling!!! My trusty camera was busy clicking away the whole time we were at the top of the hills and before we knew it,  it was time to head back down in order to catch the last ferry of the day.

On the way down, we stopped to buy a few little things from the shops. For the vendors, this was their last chance for the night, the prices were dropping incredibly quickly enabling us to get some fabulous souvenirs without having to do too much haggling. Arriving at the ferry just in time we hopped on the boat and watched the sun begin to set as we chugged back to the Gateway of India.

By the time we were finally walking back to the train station, the sun had gone down, making the temperature finally bearable. Head pounding from dehydration with every step, it made it very easy to discourage an over-zealous drum sales man from continuing his sales pitch the entire way to the station. We walked through various streets and finally cut through a park which brought us to the train station. The ladies carriage was busy but not full like the men's carriages which were so packed that there were men basically hanging out from the sides of the train. We were finally on our way back to Bandra pounding head in full force it was a relief to arrive in Bandra and catch a rick back to the flat. By the time we made it back I was extremely sick and ended up sitting on the floor under a cold shower before curling up in bed and passing out, sleeping heavily in between bouts of sickness throughout the night. 

Day 6: Mumbai Melancholy  

A wasted day in terms of tourism but a much needed day of recovery. My day consisted of sitting at the flat sleeping and recovering. By the end of the day I was feeling much better so I popped out with the girls for kebabs and although I didn't eat much what I did nibble was incredibly tasty. Once we arrived back at the flat it was showers and straight to bed giving me the fabulous night's sleep I had been dreaming of the night before.

Day 7:  Movie in Mumbai

As I was still not 100% we decided not to venture too far from the flat. Sleeping in late we took our time before getting up to go shopping. The markets provided us with masses of fantastic memoirs for purchase, from oil burners & oils to scarves, blankets, and cushion covers, we stocked up on souvenirs and enjoyed our lazy day. We had plans to go with some of the other Fulbright scholars to watch Iron Man 3 at the local theater, so we left the shops to catch a rick to the cinema. 

What an experience! A movie theater in Mumbai lends a totally different movie watching experience to its viewers. The food selection is much more varied and exciting than your average theater in the states, providing various options: sweet and savory, healthy and glutinous. Before the film began, the Indian national anthem filled the theater with a waving flag on the screen and the whole audience stood in respect. After the anthem began a plethora of unusual ads including a rather graphic anti-smoking ad before Iron Man 3 finally commenced. Action in full force, Tony Stark mid sentence, suddenly the movie stopped, for what you ask? The customary intermission. Almost the entire audience shuffled out to restock on snacks during the 15 minute break and the film kicked back in mid sentence once the intermission was over. The film finished and we caught a rick back to the flat arriving back just before midnight. The next day we would leave for Aurangabad so I will leave you here until tomorrow's post.

Meddling in Mumbai

Day 3: Mumbai Maze

There is no better way to start the day then with a fresh spinach, mango and banana smoothie. 

(Start by placing the spinach in boiling water, leaving it to wilt while chopping up the mango and banana. After pouring some fresh pineapple juice into the blender, simply squeeze in half a lime, add ice and your prepared produce, blend and enjoy!)

Feeling charged up and ready to face the heat we packed away some bananas and grapes and ventured out for the day. Deciding to head in to Matunga  for Indian sweets we hailed a cab and were off. The taxi drove us through the Dharavi slums where Slumdog Millionaire was filmed. The slum was fascinating to see up close and personal. It really was just as it had been depicted in the movie, all the way down to the kids playing cricket in the streets and along the railroad tracks. The Dharavi slum is notorious for the extreme poverty of its inhabitants, but looking out of my window all I saw was smiling faces among the heart wrenching living conditions. Living in such a material world it is inspiring to see such joy in the faces of people that have so little. 

By the time we found ourselves in Matunga my mind was still in the slums we had long since departed and I had to bring myself back in to the moment. The taxi stopped at a busy round about and after hurrying out we were wandering down the road. All of a sudden the most beautiful temple appeared. The Asthika Samaj is a wonderfully ornate building sandwiched randomly in the middle of a busy street of boring buildings. Without the temple the area was just a bunch of shops for various fabrics and edible goods.

We were not in Matunga for long before heading towards the nearest train station. This was my first experience on the trains in India and it was fabulous! After buying our tickets at a standard machine, we ascended a massive staircase which lead us to a bridge to the various platforms. On each platform their is a sign marking the waiting area for the ladies only carriage making it easy to choose the right carriage once the train arrived. Hopping in to a relatively empty carriage we found seats quickly and made ourselves comfortable for the journey. The carriage was like a modern work of art with masses of metal beams and colorful saris. both inside and out of the train my eyes busily drank up the scenery. The views of the various areas of Mumbai through the barred windows gave us a sneak peak at some of the other beautiful areas of Mumbai.

Disembarking was uneventful and once we had oriented ourselves in the station we 

Chor Bazaar

went to the road where we found a taxi to take us to Chor Bazaar. The bazaar, also referred to as Thieves Market, was an entangled web of little roads bustling with men and packed with random odds and ends for sale. From antique shops to stores selling used car parts if you were looking for something random you could probably find it here. It was rather odd to notice that we were basically the only women in the bazaar, but it felt like I was the only one who noticed. After walking for some time it quickly became apparent that we were well and truly lost so we decided to ask a shop keeper for directions. My cheeks shone bright red when after stopping to ask for directions, the man chuckled as he pointed straight at the shop cater corner to his. Thankfully it didn't take long for my cheeks to settle back into the permanent pink they had adopted in the heat. Finally entering the vintage Bollywood poster shop that marked the X on our map, the shop attended quickly turned on the AC while offering any assistance needed. Once inside you were exposed to a feast of Indian movie 

The Dhobi Ghat

culture from all the decades. The shop attendant was incredibly friendly and informative, telling us about all of the films that seemed intriguing as we flipped few a massive variety of artistic Bollywood posters spanning every year and genre. After making our selections it was time to head back into the unrelenting Indian summer sun. We decided to make our way back via the Dhobi Ghat, a slum where it appears that all of the laundry from Mumbai is done. Looking down into the slum from the train platform all you can see is line after line filled with clothes drying in the wind. Indian fabric is not short on color making the Dhobi Ghat simply beautiful to behold. It was once again an incredibly pensive journey and I found myself pulling myself out of my thoughts to disembark the busy train along with sharp elbows readily bruising the ribs of anyone around them. 

It had been a long day out in the sun and the best decision for dinner was definitely to be lazy and order delivery. As we were in India there was no better option than some local Indian food. I could not tell you what I ate but it was fantastic! We sat in watching a movie stuffing our faces before deciding to call it an early night, after taking yet another shower, it was finally time for bed. (I don't think I have ever had as many showers on a daily basis as I have in Mumbai, every time we walk back in the flat for even a short stop I jump in the shower, the heat and humidity is at a whole different level from Houston)

Day 4: Mumbai Meddling

An early start had us getting ready quickly and chugging our daily smoothie before running out the door to hop a rick to the train station. There was no doubt that it was rush hour as the people of Mumbai were all out in full force. After getting our tickets to Churchgate, which is in downtown Mumbai, we joined the crowds making their way into the station. The poverty here does not shock me because I have seen extreme poverty before but there was a little boy probably around 3 or 4 years old whose arms and legs were much too short for his body laying on his back in the middle of the bridge you use to change platforms, with a cup on his belly, just staring at the ceiling happy as a clam, parents nowhere to be seen. It was bone chilling but you just walk by, along with everybody else as there is nothing you can do, and it made my soul shiver because he could be trampled by the stampede of people and it felt like nobody would even notice but just like the crowd, we continued by and just like that he was forgotten and we were gone. The trains were much busier today and we were pushed into the train with the crowd, jumping in the ladies only carriage . 

Gateway of India

The train arrived in Churchgate on time and after about our 7th attempt a taxi agreed to take us using the meter (when in Mumbai always ask for the meter when getting in a taxi, if they say no, get a different taxi!). It drove us to the visa office where my friend got out before continuing on to the Taj Hotel where it dropped me off. My friend and I had agreed to meet at the Starbucks on the back side of the Taj. I took my time, wandering around admiring the Gateway of India and the marina before deciding to make my way to our meeting point. Unfortunately however, although the Starbucks was actually very close, the person I asked for directions sent me the wrong way. There I was walking up and down a very busy road unsuccessfully asking for directions for a good half hour. I had just about given up and decided to hop a rick back to the Taj Hotel, when I saw a fellow tourist, complete with proper bulky tortoise shell back pack whom I asked for directions. He sent me down a road that basically took me straight back to where the Taxi had dropped me off and I was relieved and annoyed to find the Starbucks directly behind the hotel on a quaint little street. I looked around for judging eyes 

Relaxing in Starbucks

and shamefully entered the nicest Starbucks I had ever set foot in to soak up the ac and zen out with a green tea frap while writing and waiting for my friend to arrive. Not long had passed before she entered through the door and after quenching her thirst we set out for the Gateway of India ,a massive monumental arch close to where the ferry's board for the Elephanta Caves. Unfortunately for us the Elephanta caves were closed on Mondays, we were luckier than some of the other tourists as this was brought to our attention before buying our tickets for the ferry. Despite the change in plans, it was nice to be able to take our time to enjoy the Gateway of India and the stunning Taj Mahal hotel. Shutter clicking like mad at the beautiful monuments and the boats lining the shore I got lost in my viewfinder and basked in the beauty of Mumbai. At the gateway I was pulled away from my viewfinder several times by friendly faces asking for photos with me, two men actually paid a photographer to take pictures with me which was quite funny and seemed rather odd, but my deal was I would only take a picture with them if they would take a picture with me, so I ended up getting some fun pictures with the locals. 

Shopping at Bombay Electric

The Taj Hotel is stunning and after following it the whole way around, we stumbled upon some really gorgeous (and expensive) little boutique shops. The first one was called Bombay Electric and I fell in love with a dress that turned out to be silk and well over $200 along with two pairs of earrings and a scarf. Had I bought them all I would have spent about $500 but I restrained for obvious reasons and didn't buy a thing. It is strange to see the huge contrast in wealth as explicitly as we had on this day. It is hard to fathom spending $200 on one article of clothing when you think of what that could do for so many of the people we had passed throughout the day. Just down the road was another boutique shop called Good Earth filled with various home goods, it had the prettiest lantern that I was incredibly tempted to buy but for the time managed to refrain. After the shops it was time to head back to Starbucks for some green tea lemonade which rid me of my pounding head (thanks to the refreshing blend of caffeine and hydration)  and ventured back out to make our way to the museum district where we walked around snapping pics of the massive buildings before going into Fab India where my purse was once again tempted to open for some gorgeous scarves. It was not as hard to leave Fab India as the ac had gone out and the shop was intensely hot. To cool down it was time to make our way to a fantastic little outdoor stand for mango lassis just around the corner from Fab India. A mango lassi is the most amazing drink. Not too sweet, not too sour, not too thick and not too watery. It quenches your thirst while satiating your appetite and satisfying your sweet tooth. Standing under the awning, enjoying this fabulous treat while listening to the beautiful Hindi being spoken around you there was no doubt that you were in a truly magical place. Stomachs and taste buds pleasantly situated we walked back to the train station where we managed to make it through the crowds into the ladies carriage for the long ride back to Bandra West. After nipping in to the flat for a quick refresh we popped back out for some panipuri before bed. Munching on these exquisite treats, which can only be described as balls of puff pastry filled with a somewhat sweet & spicy, cold & wet chutney, I soaked up the moment and looked forward to what the rest of my adventure would bring.

Magical Mumbai Markets

Day 1: Magical Mumbai.
Never have I found myself so comfortable in a city so large and so foreign. I have picked up a couple ultra basic Hindi words but other then hi, bye, what's your name, next, straight and thank you I am totally at a loss for what is going on around me. People in Mumbai are so different from the people I came across in Delhi. They keep much more to themselves and other than being asked a million times to take my picture with various children, men, and women I have felt like I am managing to blend in. Today we went shopping in the local markets and bought lots of fresh fruit and veg, it is mango season so I plan on overdosing on it while I am here. The street vendors are very pleasant and don't drag you into their shops or pester you while you are there which has definitely encouraged me to be more bold and explore more than I usually would. My darling friend has fresh flowers in her room that she buys from a local flower vendor, making her room smell divine. Love it! Wish flowers were this affordable in the States!!! The lifestyle in Mumbai is so strange because it is very zen while at the same time being inexplicably hectic. There are people everywhere busy bustling around, however despite their busy antics the city has an overwhelmingly relaxing feel to it. People appear to really take their time to enjoy life and that rubs off on you. After the  market, it was time for showers & a nap, before getting ready to head out to watch the sunset from the other side of Mumbai. 

Crowds gathering at Haji Ali

Over the incredibly impressive Worli-Bandra sea link bridge into Worli. We went straight in to a fancy textile shop, only leaving to rush to the Haji Ali Mosque for a miraculous sunset. The Haji Ali mosque is built in the middle of a Mumbai bay in the Arabian Sea so you have to walk across a long bridge to get to the impressive house of worship. The Muslim prayers sound so beautiful and made the sun setting into the thick smog all the more impressive. The banks surrounding the Mosque were jam-packed with people enjoying the breathtaking views and there was at least one person on each corner selling cups of hot tea. The rocky beach below was littered with people playing among the boulders and dipping their toes in the sea. Once the sun had set it was time to make our way back towards the main road. The colorful shops we had passed while approaching the mosque seemed all the more radiant at night tempting your mind to buy a memoir. Once making it passed the shops with our wallets still full, we waited at the road to hail a cab back to the flat.

Haji Ali at Night

People on the Banks of Haji Ali

Day 2: Mumbai Markets



Inside The Bagel Shop in Bandra West

Roosters crowing, up early, off to The Bagel Shop in Bandra West. It is the cutest little coffee shop just a short walk around the corner from the flat. After my brilliant friend got some work done it was time to explore the markets! A quick journey in a rickshaw to Bandra and we were happily devouring various tasty Indian street treats in between popping in and out of local shops. We ended up walking what felt like miles to a popular local pastry shop called Theobroma, where you could not help but treat yourself to one of the many decadent pastries. 

Leaving the highly coveted air conditioning it was time to make our way back to the flat for showers & a nap before heading back in to the market for fabric and fresh produce. On the way back we decided to walk past the beach to watch another brilliant sunset. There was a fisherman with a young boy who we enjoyed watching in the setting sun for a while before leaving to visit Mohammed the tailor's shop. Leaving our fabric and ideas with Mohammed we headed back to the flat and talked until we fell asleep. (to read more about my experiences with this clever tailor read Saturday's post, "The Fabric of India")

It had only been two days and I had already fallen in love with Mumbai, a stunning city with a beautiful soul and I could not wait to get to know it better.

Locals Fishing in the Indian Ocean

The Fabric of Mumbai

Red, Yellow, & Green. Orange, Purple, and Blue. Every possible shade surrounding you. Standing in the middle of a bustling street in Mumbai you are swarmed by stunningly vibrant shades of every color in the rainbow.

One of my favorite parts of traveling is immersing myself in the culture. Meeting the people, eating the food, having a go at the language, and experiencing the history. There is no better way to enjoy a country then to join in with the population.

In a fabric shop in Delhi on a previous trip. (2010)

On my travels through India I never failed to find a fabric shop chock-a-block floor to ceiling with magnificent material. So on my last trip to Mumbai I felt inspired to have a few dresses made that I had looked for in the States but had yet to come across. My dear friend was in Mumbai for research and had a charming tailor she went to with various fabric and designs with which he crafted uniquely beautiful attire.


We went to a local fabric shop to hunt for the perfect material. I wanted a few playful summer dresses so I found some light material with beautiful patterns for the skirt portion. One was black with colorful confetti raining down it and the other looked like a feathery mosaic of various shades of red and orange. It was then time to hunt for the top half, a jersey knit fabric in a beautiful crimson and jet black that was stretchy and comfortable. Once we both had our selections we handed the shop keeper our Rupees and headed to Mohammed's.

Mohammed's shop was on the corner of a relatively busy little road. It had a little hole in the floor bathroom

My best friend with Mohammed wearing her own tailor made creation!

in the corner behind a curtain, three sewing tables and two wooden storage cabinets. The building was two concrete walls and two massive aluminium doors that rolled down to close up shop. Open unpredictably from about 11 til 10 the shop was run by a hard working, incredibly sweet man with a great sense of humor.

We walked up to Mohammed's shop and I gave him my fabric describing my vision to him as he took down the details on paper, carefully drawing some basic sketches of the design. However, when putting my fabric away Mohammad paired them incorrectly putting the black jersey knit with the black pattern and the red jersey knit with the red pattern. I had decided on them being paired red with black and black with red but our creative minds were at odds. After a humorous discussion Mohammed repaired them as I desired and took my measurements for the dresses.

Several days had passed before we went back for my dress fitting and as we began to approach the shop I could barely contain my excitement. Mohammed was obviously happy to see us when we arrived and he quickly produced four dresses! Having only requested two I was shocked to see four beautiful dresses appear each hand crafted for me. Mohammed decided that since there was enough fabric he would pair them both per his vision as well as my own. I went into his curtained bathroom, careful not to fall in the hole, and tried on each of the dresses. They were beautiful but the fit was just slightly off in certain places so we left them with Mohammed for the final alterations.

One of my dresses having the zip fitted

The next night we went back to the shop for the final fitting. I went in to the bathroom with the first dress and it fit like a dream. The second dress however, was not quite as much of a success. The material used for the bottom half had no give and as the waist had been sized for my waist which is smaller than my top or bottom it created a slight problem. Now this would not have mattered if I had not been so determined to get it on, but in all of my excitement I pulled the dress over my head, wedged it down over my shoulders and realized very quickly that I was well and truly stuck. The dress was not going any further, up or down! I tried desperately to tug it back off but would not budge. Arms in the air, eyes and nose poking out of the top of my dress I shouted for my friend to come and help me. She poked her head in the curtain and burst out laughing. She slipped in to the tiny square of a room with me and started to weasel the dress off my shoulders. There we were, two people in a bathroom barely big enough for one, tugging in either direction while desperately trying not to fall in the hole in the ground which served as a toilet. Having been friends for 20 years we couldn't escape the humor in the situation and ended up gasping for breath in between fits of giggles which only made the fit tighter. Luckily, however, we managed to catch our breath after several minutes and with some coaxing she managed to free me from my threads. I put my shirt back on and we emerged from the bathroom to curious faces trying to hide their amusement. With cheeks burning I explained the problem to Mohammed and after a little bit of confusion and lots of giggling he decided to add zips to the sides of the two dresses with the inflexible material. We stood and watched as he made the final alterations. The dresses were exactly what I had wished for and when he only charged me the equivalent of $4 a dress I made sure to overpay him and not accept any change.

Now that I am back in the States I wear my dresses all the time and every time I can't help but smile as I think of how they came to be.